Similar to the airports and airlines in the Caribbean, the airport in Harare and Air Zimbabwe have a really laid-back approach to air travel. It didn't take us long to get through check-in, and after paying an airport tax of $15/each (which I had read about online, they don't give you a heads up otherwise), we were on our way to the tiny domestic waiting area complete with one bar and one cafe. The two "gates" were really just sliding glass doors right next to each other that opened up onto the tarmac. Once on the plane, we were met by a kind staff. Food was not the greatest, but it was only a one hour flight between Harare and Victoria Falls anyway. We had requested a shuttle from our hotel, the Victoria Falls Rainbow Hotel, but no one was there to pick us up. We got a taxi for the 15 minute or so drive to the hotel.

I always feel famous when I walk out onto the tarmac to board a plane.

The hotel was pretty good, certainly ahead of the Cresta Jameson in Harare. Our room was spacious and comfortable. The hotel has a restaurant, a bar, and a pool. It's not as fancy as some of the other hotels (you can certainly stay in a luxurious hotel here - like the Livingstone Hotel on the Zambian side), but we got a great deal on the room at around a 40% discount since we booked at the last minute. It's not located on the main road like other hotels, however Victoria Falls is so small that you can basically walk anywhere. We felt much safer and more comfortable in Vic Falls than we did Harare. I attribute this to the fact that Vic Falls sees foreign faces all the time; Harare isn't exactly a top destination for most travelers.

Harare from above

As soon as we got to our hotel, we booked excursions through Shearwater Victoria Falls. We hadn't been planning on it, but we bit the bullet and bought a package that included a helicopter flight over the falls. Included in our package were a sunset cruise and a guided tour of the falls. We also added ziplining (or the bridge slide, as they call it) and the Devil's Pool. Honestly, it was expensive. But the one thing we've learned through our travels is that we have never once regretted spending our money on experiences. So, we'll deal with the reality of the bill later!

Our helicopter, with the spray of Vic Falls a couple kilometers away in the distance

Zambezi Helicopters

Only thirty minutes after we booked our excursions, we were in a van on the way to the heli pad. Neither of us had ever been in a helicopter before, and I adore being in the sky, so we knew it was going to be exciting. After some safety instructions, a description of the course the helicopter would take, and weigh-ins (!), we were on our way to the helicopter pad. I lucked out and got to sit up front with our pilot Desmond because they needed a small person in the front for weight distribution. Justin was seated in the back in the middle, which turned out to be a great spot. The helicopter made a couple turns in each rotational direction so that everyone aboard got a good look at the falls and canyons. Justin and I lucked out, being in the front and in the middle in the back, as we got a great view pretty much the whole time. Desmond was quiet but careful and shyly pointed out the huge sheet of rain that was headed our way. 

Kiley & our helicopter pilot Desmond

The canyon that cradles the Zambezi River is immense and cuts a serpentine path through the landscape.

That bridge connects Zambia and Zimbabwe just around the bend from Victoria Falls.

A zillion photos and one GoPro video later, we were back on the ground. The whole trip took around 13 minutes. Although this was a pricier adventure, it was absolutely worth every penny. I'm also glad it was the first thing we did, as it was a great introduction to the falls. There is no way to understand the length, depth, immensity, and impact they have on the surrounding landscape other than from the air. Since we visited during the beginning of the rainy season, the water was low, and the falls weren't as full. That was quite alright with me because during the high water season, there is so much water pouring over the edge and so much spray produced that you can't even see the falls.

The falls are best viewed from the Zimbabwe side to the right, but it is worth exploring them from Zambia, as well.

After heading back to the hotel for a bit, we were picked up for our sunset cruise along the Zambezi River. The Zambezi is the 4th largest river in Africa behind the Nile, the Congo, and the Niger. It begins in Zambia and crosses through a total of 6 countries before it empties into the Indian Ocean. Unlike other rivers in Africa, the flow of the Zambezi is strong all year round. Up river, the Barotse Flood Plain floods during November-March. Since Victoria Falls is around 1000 kilometers (~621 miles) from the river source, the flood waters provide high flow for the falls in April and May. So although it's now rainy season in the Vic Falls area, the water is still low. 

Whiskey, GoPro, and an impending sunset, all we needed for our cruise

We saw a crocodile! It was about 6' long.

Since the rainy season has just begun in this area, the weather has fluctuated between heavy rains and beautiful sunshine. Unfortunately for our sunset cruise, it was rainy and a little cool. As fairly avid travelers, we're used to bowing down to the weather we're given. The cruise provided free alcohol and some appetizers, so we took advantage and made a dinner out of that. They served us chicken kebabs, a cheese wrap, and delicious ground nuts.

The hippos were fun to watch bob up and down from the surface.

My goal for the night was to see a crocodile and a hippo, and the night did not disappoint. We almost immediately caught a glimpse of a crocodile around 6' long. Further on down the river we encountered at least two dozen hippos. It was fun and honestly a little unnerving to see them appear at the surface of the water, their ears and half their noses exposed to the air. Hippos are extremely territorial and very dangerous, so we were glad to see them from about 20-30 yards away.

A rainy sunset but a sunset nonetheless

After the cruise, we headed back to the hotel for a shower and to get ready for bed. We stayed up later than we should have (still not used to the time change) because we needed to get up at 5:15 the next morning to make it to the Devil's Pool Breezer - a swim in the Devil's Pool right on the edge of the falls and a nice breakfast on Livingstone Island. An early morning awaited us.

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